Targa90's 7th Generation Celica Lift Bolt Replacement Tutorial
A number of the early 7th gen Celicas were fitted with poorly designed lift bolts that were (a) put in too tight and (b) the wrong shape therefore causing undue stress and fracturing
Go here to see Toyota's official guide: Toyota Lift bolt TSB
The TSB (Toyota Service Bulletin) contains Toyotas method for replacing these bolts, it goes into a lot of detail and makes it un-necessarily complicated, in most cases this guide I have written will be sufficient.
Please read this guide as well as the Toyota one and asses for yourself if you think it is possible to do on your own or to take it to a mechnic, obviously I take no liability if you break something :)
Socket set with extensions and universal joints
Shitloads of rags
Turpentine (or another solvent, metho, white spirits, etc.)
New Lift bolts (Part# 90105-06293, make sure they are the new TAPERED bolts, look throgh this tutorial and note the difference between the old and new bolts)
Low RPM drill (battery operated is best)
New gaskets and o-rings (See TSB for part numbers)
Reverse drill set
Easy-out bolt extraction tool + shifitng spanner
1. Engine cover:
Remove the engine cover (with VVTLi written on it), I have also removed the other two engine covers, you don't need to but it might be good so you can see where nuts and bolts fall, if youre clumsy.
2. Set engine to 0'TDC:
I dont know why the TSB says to do this, I think its more for removing the timing chain and stuff, I did it just incase
Put the car into 6th gear and roll it forwards untill the white mark on the main pulley lines up with 0' (See the TSB for a picture of this, I couldn't focus my camera)
You can do it with a spanner too but its so much eaiser to just roll the car in gear
3. Remove PCV hoses:
Use a pair of pliers to grip the clamps and move them back along the hose
Gently pull the hoses off, in older high mileage cars these hoses may be brittle, be careful
Pull them somewhere out of the way, tie them with a rag if they keep swinging back
4. Remove ignition coils:
Unplug the cables that go to the 4 coils (squeeze and pull)
Jam your fingers under them and pull up, it will be quite difficult
You will need to remove all 4 of them, it does not matter which order they go back in
5. Loosen wire harness:
Two bolts hold it to the roccer cover at the top and a further two bolts on the side hold the wires to the roccer cover (near battery)
Remove all these bolts so you can move the harness out of the way when it comes time to remove the cover
6. Remove roccer cover:
Unbolt the ventilation tube first
Unbolt the cover (9 bolts)
Tap all 4 corners of the roccer cover with a block of wood untill it starts to move around
Get someone to hold the wire harness back
Remove roccer cover (lift up a little, move it back and then rotate forwards)
Try not to loose/damage the ventillation tube gasket
7. Remove lift bolts:
Take note of how tight they were, it is an indication of how tight you need to re-do them if you don't have a torque wrench
Unbolt both lift bolts
If youre one of the lucky ones with two intact lift bolts continue from step 10
My INTAKE bolt came out like this:
And the ramaining piece:
Note that it cut CLEAN off, this makes a perfect working environment for drilling the bolt out, if your bolt is jagged, on an angle or has broken in such a way that it has left a convex-shaped piece in the engine, DO NOT attempt to remove it, take it to a mechanic!
8. Removing broken bolts:
I must stress! do not attempt to continue if the broken piece of bolt in the engine does not have a surface that is suitable for drilling in a confined space, if you think the drill will wander off and drill into something else, get a professional to do it!
Grab your reverse drill bit set and take a small bit
TAKE NOTE of how much of the bolt is left in the engine!!! you MUST NOT drill any further than what is in there or else you may cause damage, compare your broken bolt with an un-broken one, put tape on the drill bit so you dont drill too far.
Compare the length of an un-broken bolt to find out where to stop drilling, the masking tape indicates how far you can go, do not let the masking tape go beyond the opening of the screw hole.
SLOWLY drill a pilot hole in the center of the bolt, if it slides off-center, stop and start again, get it as close as possible to center, this provides the best leverage and gives the most room for following drillings.
If you have a clockwise drill set that has a smaller drill bit than the reverse set, you can use it to make an indentation in the bolt to make drilling with the reverse set eaiser (see picture)
Make sure you regularly dip the drill bit into engine oil to ensure that it stays libricated and does not overheat or snap
Drill untill the masking tape is almost level with the top of the screw hole
Grab a bolt extraction tool and tap it into the hole that you have just drilled (pick a tool size that grips best)
It might help to use a larger drill bit and drill another hole about half the length of the one you just drilled, mark this drill bit with tape and use that to gauge how far half way is. This way you can use BOTH the small and slightly larger extraction tools to see which one grips best.
Use a shifting spanner to grip onto the end of the easy-out and turn it anti-clockwise, watch to make sure that it is drilling itself into the bolt as opposed to just spinning on the top. You may have to hammer it down a few times before it grips, be careful and remember, stop and take it to a mechanic if at any point you doubt your ability.
cheer when the bolt comes out, if this dosent work, give up now or youll get frustrated and start breaking things!
9. Repair damaged thread
You may have damaged the thread in the process of removing the bolt
Spray WD-40 into the hole to move all of the small metal shards
The shards will collect, wipe up as much of it as you can, you can stick a rag in place to stop the metal shards from falling into the cylnder head prior to blasting it out with WD-40
Take the un-broken exhaust lift bolt and bolt it into the intake side (this straightens up the threads, it may be difficult to bolt down depending on how much you damaged the threads)
DO NOT use your new lift bolts for this, it will weaken them, use the in-tact bolt from the exhaust side
10. Replace bolts:
I tested the torque that Toyota reccomends in the TSB with a borrowed torque wrench and to me it seems WAY too tight for an aluminium head, I believe that it will DAMAGE the threads. Instead I re-installed the bolts using my own feel of the torque. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
11. Replace roccer cover:
Clean the cover gasket with a rag and then scrape any excess sealant with your fingernail (its a white/grey soft glue, replace gasket if desired)
The circled section is where the glue will have accumulated, remove excess glue, there will be another spot on the gasket with a similar build-up of glue, clean that also
clean oil supply o-ring with a rag (replace if desired)
Clean mounting surface for cover gasket with turpentine, remove as much of the old sealant as possible (there will be two spots of it on the left hand side)
Clean ventilation gasket and mounting surfaces with turps
Apply sealant to two locations pictured:
The spots in the above picture are along a join between the TIMING COVER AND HEAD! They are the surfaces that the roccer cover gasket come in DIRECT CONTACT with. (The TSB has a better picture of this)
If re-using oil supply o-ring, apply a small film of sealant to it
Re-install roccer cover
Bolt down the ventilation pipe AFTER torquing the roccer cover bolts
Replace everything else, make sure the igniter coils are secure and plugged in
Let it sit for an hour so the sealant can set