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Technical Tips Page

This page contains technical tips as submitted by visitors to this site. They are presented as is, try them at your own risk. Please remember to consult a professional if in doubt.

If you have any other tech tips to add to this page, please email me.


All models - Alternator or Battery light is on

All models - Improperly working rear tail lights.

VB - VH 253 V8 Diffs Exploding.

VB - VK leaking window seals

VB - VK pools of oil appearing next to the carburettors on 253 and 308 engines

VB - VK Substitute Carburetter (Black and Blue Motor)

VB - VY Commodore Boot Leak

VC - VK blue and black six cylinder engines erratic idle

VH flasher unit only clicks on left or right turn and flashes quicker

VH Temperature Gauge shows over-heating

VH (possibly) and VK 3.3L Carby's flooding

VK Commodore EST light stays on after start

VK no spark at plugs but power at coil

VK EFI no start but all appears ok

VK Taillight problems

Early VL Commodores Temperature Gauge Rises but car not over heating

VL Nissan 6 cylinder engine notes

Various VL Turbo Problems: (Could also be common on normally aspirated VL)

VL Commodore 6cyl auto: first gear only revs out to approx 3500rpm when floored, even in power mode

VL Commodore: inherant flatspot on some

VL Commodore Engine Cutting Out

VL Commodore: Changing to disc brake on rear of car

VL Commodore Air Box modification and Air Flow Meter and Filter

VL Commodore High fuel consumption with black smoke from exhaust

VL and upwards crank angle sensor

VL Boot Release Not Working Properly

Repair of interior window rubber at the top of the door trim, VN - VS Executive, Berlina, sedans and wagons, not sure about door trim construction on Calais, Statesman.

Heater/air conditioner fan on a VN-VS only works on some speeds

VN petrol and temp. gauge intermittently failing

VN Temperature Gauge Tip

VN Calais Trip Computer Special Functions

VN Commodore continual flat battery

V6 Commodore not starting

VN Commodore fuel pump fuse blown but pump is ok

VN Commodore fuel pump operates continuosly after ignition is turned off

VN, VP Commodore taillights & Headlights problems

VN, VP Commodore Power Door Locks fail

VN Central Locking Cycles For No Reason Or Engine Stalls Then Starts Normally

V6 Commodore hard starting and misfiring under load

V6 Commodore cuts out

V6 Engine Noise

VN Commodore Rough Idle

VN V6 Won't Idle When Warm

VN - VS Stops When Hot, Will Start Once Cooled

VN-VR central locking wiring harness falling out of rear door locks

V6 Engine Fault Codes

VP Commodore Automatic not changing into top gear

VP Commodore oil light on when running

V6 3800 and V8 5000 Oil Pressure Problems (my VS Caprice, 160,000km)

Removal of console in VP Commodore

Repairing Electric Side Mirror Switch on a VP Commodore

Loose Steering Wheel Grip on VP (and other models?)

Petrol Fumes in Interior of VP

VP alternator charge wire burnt out at alternator b+ terminal

VP vent and demister controls not working

Understanding your V.I.N.

VR engine stops for no reason (check engine light on)

VR V8 engine stops

VR Series 2 will not start for up to 1 hour intermittant problem

VR Commodore Rough Idle

VR hard to start after an hour engine stop

VR V6 Coolant Loss, suspect head gaskets

Speed Alert Special Functions on VR II and VS

VS Commodore Engine & Transmission Fault Codes

VS Commodore Indicators Stop Working

VS Commodore Radio Security Function

VT Commodore Radio Security Function

Special Functions on VT trip computer.


All models - Alternator or Battery light is on

Batery not charging. Fault- poor connection or blown fuseable link (brown wire) at the battery positive terminal.

From: Peter F.

VT Ute - The dashboard "battery light" intermittantly turns hard on while the headlights are on.
Check spade connector at B+ to altenator. Severe corrosion of the spade connector caused an open circuit or high resistance in the charging circuit.

Fix :- Trim wires and replace spade connector at B+.

From: Phill


All models - Improperly working rear tail lights.

If you find dim, or partially working rear lights, a common problem found is water corroding electrical connections. Thouroughly remove rust from globe sockets and mounts, then the full current can travel through the globe.

Another trick is to drill a small hole under the lens to let the water out.

From: David R., Dion

I noticed that a lot of people write in about the tail lights on there early model commodores, most of the tail lights act like fish tanks and fill up of water thus making bad electrical contacts. First thing to do is drill small holes in the bottom of your tail lights then replace the tail light globe holders which are stocked by Holden or coventries. This should put an end to your rear light and indicator problems.

From: Brett T.


VB - VH 253 V8 Diffs Exploding

Holden did the stupid thing of hooking a 6 cylinder diff up to a 253 V8, this causes the stock diffs to explode when put under intense load for long times eg: burnouts, heavy towing. The best solution is to bolt up a 308 diff to the 253 or get a 9" diff for it.

From: Ben L.


VB - VK leaking window seals

Stop looking for boot leaks through the boot seals. One of the most common places for the leak to occur is through the window seals (front as well onto the front floor). Usually due to rust under the seal as well. Naturally the window has to be removed and is quite possible that it will crack, especially if there are chips etc. Repair the rust if present,and reseal with a new seal. The genuine VK window seal will fit into all of these and is much superior,also it doesn't have the annoying centre insert! Good Luck.

From: Rob


VB - VK pools of oil appearing next to the carburettors on 253 and 308 engines

Often as a mechanic I see people with complaints about oil in the inlet manifold valley next to the carburettor. The inlet manifolds on blue and black engines warp near the egr crossover and oil leaks past the bolt and forms a pool of oil. The proper way to fix this is to remove and machine the manifold, but a temporary fix is to remove the 2 centre manifold bolts on the right side of the manifold and apply a sealant to the bolts and replace. It's a common problem but can be easily overcome! I hope this can be of use!

From: Peter Forster


VB - VK Substitute Carburetter (Black and Blue Motor)

The most common cause of engine troubles with the 202 motors was the Varajet carbi. It made the engines work to well bellow their potential. A cheap substitue for the varajet is a small Weber (32-36) off of the XE falcons. They cost around $40 dollars (plus adaption plate) and are easily fitted to these motors with only the accelerator cable mount needing to be modified. They not only provide greater horse power but also increase your fuel effeciency. (N/B: With the black motor in the VK the secondary throttle sensor must be disconected and the computer (EST) must be reset.

From: Kris Humphrys


VB - VY Commodore Boot Leak

Water leaking in boot? Then check the screws that fix the fuel cap onto the body of the vehicle. A bit of silicone rubber around the screws and surround should do the trick!

From: Leon


A leaking boot is not always due to a faulty boot lid seal. The seal between the tail lights and the body shrinks over time and allows water to pass into the light assembly and out along one of the two studs holding the light cluster to the body. This can corrode the light globes as well as the spare wheel well!. The fix is to replace the lights ($$$) or clean the mating surfaces and augment the seal with some silastic.

I hope this saves many frustrating hours locked in the boot of a Commodore for some.

From: Steve


If the car has had a rear end accident at some stage the sealer that panelbeaters use may crack with age, all mine needed was a bit of silicone over the cracks in the sealer and no more pools in my boot.

From: Alex D


I found water in the boot of my 1995 VR Acclaim. After accusing and replacing the boot rubber and still having the leak I did the usual and got myself locked in the boot. It turns out that the rear side window (between C & D pillars) is an integral unit with the rubber. Removing the interior trim around the window reveals the bolts that hold the window on. The seal around the window/rubber had perished with age and was letting water in above the wheel well. The solution was to silicon it back on/in.

MAJOR TIP: If you need to smash any window to get into the car - smash door glass not this window as the door glass is easier to replace!!!

From: David


People that have been wondering how to fix a leaking boot don't stress no more cause I have the answer. All ya need is some window silicon or just plain silicon, you have to get to the bottom of that small triangle window which consists of taking the back dash out but you might need to take out the back seats first. After doing that get somone to spray water on the window you should be able to see were the water is coming in from if it's like my VP it's got some sort of underlay mesh stuff (it's behind it) you might have to take it off to see where it leaks all you do is put silicon on ya finger and run it across the part you think it's coming through, if you can't reach it with a silicon gun or your finger you might need a car window repairer to take it out and fix it by re-siliconing it. I hope this helps you cause it was annoying for me to see a puddle in my boot from the littlest leak coming through the window.

The above might help in certain ways but to make it fully go away and if you have some money to spend, call a glass repairer. I got O'Brian's service to redo my 1/4 panel window due to having a swimming pool in my boot and got fed up with it because the way I said before didn't really help me for that long. So get a pro to do it for you, as they take out the whole 1/4 panel window and take off the old rubber on it and replace it with a new rubber, and better silicon under the the 1/4 panel window and the rubber and also the same as the body so it keeps the water out even better than normal and no more leaking boot. It's easier to sit back and let them do all the work for you.

From: Wardy


I have had a problem with water in boot in my VS sedan and after exhaustive searching by myself, ie, all seals intact, hose rear window and boot seal with water. Nothing. Found problem whilst lying in closed boot with torch whilst a friend hosed all. Found problem was both rear quarter windows seals faulty. Do not attempt to fix yourself as you will break/crack window surrounds. Took car to Novus Windscreen repairs and they fixed problem for about $100. Novus guys said it's a very common fault. Hope this helps.

From: Alan


VC - VK blue and black six cylinder engines erratic idle

A lot of the time erratic idle on blue and black 6 cylinder commodores can be caused by warpage of the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Seeing that the inlet and exhaust manifolds are bolted together but are of different metal compositions, they expand and contract at different rates. After time, these manifolds work loose from the head, which inturn creates a vacuum leak and therefore eratic idle. Usually tightening the manifold bolts along the head rectifies the problem, but in the worst case, the manifolds need to be removed and a new gasket fitted. 9 out of 10 commodores I service have this problem, so it is very common and easily fixed!

From: Peter Forster


VH flasher unit only clicks on left or right turn and flashes quicker

The problem is a faulty earth. Go to the rear lights and check the earth connection of the wiring harness. The problem will be that the earthwire in the harness is not making proper contact with the earth in the plug.

From: Tony Curtis


VH Temperature Gauge shows over-heating

I think one of the worst angst is seeing the temperature needle rise, yet the engine is not over heating (due to the fact you can still touch the head area and even the radiator! The worst thing is not knowing if it's really over heating somewhere else inside the engine block!! This one took me days to figure out and many poor sleepless nights!

If the temperature needle rises suddenly and stays about 75% over, then you have to stop the car - unless you want to seize the engine and basically kill the entire car.
Pull the bonnet.
Have a pair of thin (not too thin) latex gloves and start feeling around the engine block and radiator. The water hoses should be the hottest, so don't expect them to be warm by any means. The things to check are the engine block around the sides and near the water pump. If they are simply too hot to even touch with your finger tips... you have an overheating engine. Take it straight to a mechanic and preferably towed to avoid further damage to the engine.
If you can lightly touch the parts, then try and touch the parts with your full hand. If you can then you are NOT overheating the engine.
Remember, the only way to let an engine cool down is to simply not use it.
Once cool, go for another drive.
Now here is the interesting bit.
If within 5 minutes or so, the needle jumps over the halfway mark then assume (at first) that the engine is not overheating and it's something to do with the needle... BUT... if you turn a corner and see the needle go the way of the turn (left or right), then you have two possible problems.
[1] the needle is stuffed and reacts to any temperature. Replace
or
[2] the alternator is not properly charging the battery but the charger light is not coming on. This was the case with me. Pull out the alternator and pull out the contact brushes. If your brushes are about 1cm long, replace them.
I found that a fully working alternator and electrical system gives better readings of things like temperature needles, etc.
I hope this helps someone.

From: Fernando


VH (possibly) and VK 3.3L Carby's flooding

If your sitting at the lights and your VH/VK stalls on you and a strong smell of petrol is hanging around, more than likely it is a stuck needle valve in the carby. One solution is to dismantle the carby and rekit it, or another simple and less expensive option is to take the air filter off, and where VARAJET is written, tap on it with a screwdriver. This will move the needle so it sits back in its seat.

From: David Redmond


VK Commodore EST light stays on after start

Fault- throttle switch adjustment

From: Peter Forster


VK no spark at plugs but power at coil

Fault- poor ecu harness connection near battery.

From: Peter Forster


VK EFI no start but all appears ok

Fault- airflow meter door jams open.

From: Peter Forster


VK Taillight problems

The VK may see these problems as the indicators, reverse light warning and other dash lights coming on when you press the brake light. This problem (which I have seen on many VK's) is caused by poor design of the vehicle's earthing structure. To solve the problem, first locate the plug in the boot that connects the tail lights to the rest of the vehicle wiring, second, locate the black earth wire (usually melted). Cut the earth wire on both sides of the plug. Strip the wire back and solder the two together, then tape. Don't use quick crimp connectors because you will then suffer the same problem.

From: Andrew


Early VL Commodores Temperature Gauge Rises but car not over heating

This is common, the temp gauge needle is loose and moves as you go around corners. You can tighten it but it is a pain in the ass, it's easier to get a new instrument panel from a wreck.

From: David Carlyon


VL Nissan 6 cylinder engine notes

VL commodore owners BEWARE,the Nissan head on ht turbo or the Atmo is very prone to cracking and it CANNOT be welded, I should know this because I am a Professional engine reconditioner, there are a few remedies, the easiest is to upgrade the cooling system, also there are bleed valves on the head that need to be bled after you refill the engine with coolant, if you don't an air pocket will create a hot spot an your head which will shit itself, also you should get your local mechanic to use his FLUKE meter (if he is any good he will have one) to adjust the airflow so that the engine runs slightly richer and therefore cooler

From: Ricky

I had a VL which had cracking in every cam journal, this was sent off to adelaide head services, where they ground out and welded the cracks, and line bored the cam tunnel. Just thought you might like to know this.

From: Mark


Various VL Turbo Problems: (Could also be common on normally aspirated VL)

Common problems I have found.

Best cheaper workshop manual I believe is the Max Ellery's Factory Workshop Manual, I have referenced the pages in this manual.

Auto Transmission:
Not selecting the correct gears, not down-shifting on hills: Oil ingress to the throttle valve switch (via butterfly shaft). The throttle valve switch contains a throttle position sensor which outputs to the trans computers, gets oily and stops working. Solution is to replace it or remove it, drill out 2 rivets and clean with switch contact cleaner, glue cover back on refit and adjust. Manual Ref: Engine Management Page 298 for description, 311 for adjustment.

No kickdown:
Detent switch not working properly. Switch is located above the accelerator pedal, activated on full throttle. Solution: adjust it. Manual Ref: Auto Trans Page 440.

Poor driveability / lack of power:
1. oxygen sensor is not working. Manual Ref Page 330
2. corrosion on electrical contacts, very common on coolant temp sensor and crank angle sensor if you wash the engine a lot. Check for green or white power on contact pins & in plugs. Solution: clean off of pins with contact cleaner, replace the connector pins.
3. replace the fuel filter every 30K.

P.S: Read the precautions in the manual with regards to working on the Engine Management System and follow them. If in doubt, take it to somebody who knows these cars.

From: Martin


VL Commodore 6cyl auto: first gear only revs out to approx 3500rpm when floored, even in power mode

fix: detent switch above accelerator, sometimes can be adjusted, but even then, often not far enough to operate correctly. Fitting a piece of hose over the sliding rod to enlarge it's diameter will allow more travel, and will then operate correctly ie: first gear will rev out to optimum rpm before changing to second. saves changing manually!!! most vl's I see have this problem. who knows why.

From: Paul T


VL Commodore: inherant flatspot on some

fix: apart from filling with premium and advancing the timing so much it pings it's ass off, try this: advance the cam timing by one tooth. You may also have to cut a piece away from the base plate of the distributor to gain enough timing adjustment. Set the timing to ear, not with a timing light (don't be lazy!!! grab a spanner and drive up and down the road and keep fiddling til its optimum!) generally should gain some healthy performance, and loose the flatspot!

From: Paul T


VL Commodore Engine Cutting Out

Engine cutting out under all driving conditions. Switch into Power Mode by pressing switch on t-bar. You will notice the power light will come on at the instrument cluster. Now road test the car. When the engine dies you will notice that the power light will turn off as well. The problem is either a faulty auto trans ECU or just a dry solder on the board. You can wiggle the connections to the trans ECU as an intermittent fix, located under driver's side dash area.

From: Ben A


VL Commodore: Changing to disc brake on rear of car

It is quite possible to change from drums to disc, just need to note that the only difference in axle specs is the size of the seal, change this and there will be no dramas.

N.B The handbrake cables are different as well.. Nearly easier to change the whole diff assembly if you can get ya hands on one.

From: Andrew


VL Commodore Air Box Modification and Air Flow Meter and Filter

VL normally aspirated engines were tricked on Government specification by removing the funnel at the air filter box and enlargening the opening by 50%. (To the next flute is neat). The 3.0 litre loves oxygen. I have never had overheating and think the power increase is about 15 percent. You do get a throaty exhaust under exceleration . I was very impressed after 30 minutes of operation.

From: David

Is your VL a bit sluggish? Tips
- Try a new air flow meter. If you are still running the original, chances are it's hardly working. This does make a lot of difference.
- If you are not already running a pod style filter this can also help. For around $120 never to be replaced again, these filters are well worth it. I also found that when fitting these little numbers try cutting the original flexy air flow hose right back so your air flow meter is sitting on the end of the main duct from the throttle body. These small changes can give you the edge over other standard VLs.

From: Joshy


VL Commodore High fuel consumption with black smoke from exhaust

I investigated a VL Commodore (my son's) that displayed a very rich mixture at idle, though the car drove OK. Copious amonts of black mixture smoke were emitted from the exhaust, particularly at idle and when accelarating from rest.

The ECU was checked and recalibrated to specs. The air flow sensor was replaced, and all other input sensors checked. All were found to be OK.

However, the fuel rail pressure was found to be excessively high, around 400kPa instad of 200 to 250 (approx). This was causing excessive fuel to be metered into the engine. The fuel regulator was changed with no effect. But significant back pressure was detected in the return line to the tank. The return line was disconnected at the engine end, and return fuel collected separately. Engine running improved immediately.

The return line was inspected and found to be free from any kinks or pinched/perished hoses. Removing the return line at the tank end produced a similar improvement to engine running.

The problem proved to be the following (with a little help from a Holden dealer who confirmed my suspicions). The return fuel line inside the tank is connected to a plastic swirl pot, where fuel is continually circulated around the low pressure pump inside the tank. The return line has some sort of a jet on the end that causes the fuel to be squirted out, creating the swirl. This appears to become blocked or pinched, thus causing back pressure to build up. The awirl pot and return line can just be seen inside the tank, through the apeture where the pump and sender are attached. (The tank has really to be removed to see this).

The only practical solution is to fit a replacement tank, as to check or repair the swirl pot means cutting open the tank. This was done with a tank of a wrecked vehicle, and the car has been 100% since.

From: Peter H.


VL and upwards crank angle sensor

When ever you replace your crank angle sensor, you MUST replace the lower bearing in the distributor. A faulty bearing will give off a red dust that will cause the new sensor to fail very quickly. A faulty sensor will cause hot starting problems.

From: Mike


VL Boot Release Not Working Properly

Due to me having this problem I found if you sort of bend the wire that pulls in to release the boot it sort of gives it a bit of a better pull, if unsuccessful buy a new one or get a good working one from the wreckers should only cost $20 - $40 roughly.

From: Wardy


Repair of interior window rubber at the top of the door trim. Covers all doors on sedan and wagon.

Models: VN - VS, Executive, Berlina, not sure about door trim construction on Calais, Statesman.

Problem: The black rubber window seal between the top of the interior door trim and the window glass separates from the door trim.

Author: Paul Heuer - 30APR96

Disclaimer: This is my account of how I did this little repair. I don't suggest you follow these steps, I'm not a motor mechanic and I don't work for Holden or GM. I took lots of care not to sniff the glue, cut myself with screwdrivers, etc. I suggest you do too. Parental guidance recommended. Is this stuff really neccessay?

Solution:

0. Remove the positive battery terminal and chock the wheels. They always say that in the manuals. It's some sort of disclaimer for idiots who burn down their car or run themselves over.

1. Grab the rubber seal before it completely separates from the door trim and falls into the door cavity. This makes the job relatively easy. If the rubber seal has fallen into the door cavity you can still follow these instructions, you just need to continue to remove the door trim, fish out the rubber seal, then replace the trim and join us again near the end (heh, heh).

2. Remove the interior door lock knob. This needs a simple tool to be made.

2a. Using a wire coat hanger, cut a length of wire about 300mm long.

2b. Flatten about 75mm at one end.

2c. Using a pair of pliers, from a 90 degree bend at the flattened end so that there is a 1 - 2mm lip at the flattened end.

2d. Make a gentle curve in the flattened part so that the lip can get down the side of the lock knob while the wire lays horizontally across the orange strip at the front of the knob.

2e. The orange strip across the front of the lock knob is what holds the knob onto the lock rod. Lay the homemade tool across the orange strip as described in 2d. Hook the lip of the tool behing the side of the orange strip, and swing the other end of the tool in toward the centre of the car. You should now be able to tug the tool and have the orange strip pop out from the lock knob.

2f. If the orange strip won't pop free, you may need to just pull up on the lock knob while using the tool to pull the orange strip toward the centre of the car. This may be enough to release the clamp on the lock rod.

2g. Remove the lock knob trim ring by removing the retaining screw.

3. Remove the interior door grab handle trim plate by gently prising it off with a small screwdriver. Slacken the two grab handle retaining screws. If your car has electrical remote mirrors you may need to pop the adjustment switch out of the grab handle. It is just a press fit.

4. Remove the rear view mirror trim plate on front doors by removing the screw and prising the trim away from the door frame. My car has electric mirrors, so I'm not sure how this bit differs for cars with manual mirrors.

5. Wind the window down as far as it will go.

6. Gently prise the top edge of the door trim away from the door slightly. You should feel the press in clips just 'pop' free, that's far enough.

7. Using a screwdriver, and being careful not to damage the door trim, prise up one end of the plastic strip along the top edge of the door trim. This piece is pressed onto the door itself, it is not attached to the door trim.

8. Work along the plastic strip, lifting it upwards. Make sure the black rubber seal comes with the trim. Don't let it fall into the door.

9. Using a contact adhesive (eg Bostik), glue the black rubber back onto the plastic trim strip. You may need to slightly stretch the black rubber seal so that it reaches along the full length of the plastic strip.

10. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure (yeh, right). OK, here's the gotchas:

11. With the window still wound down, and the door trim still pulled slightly away from the door, press the plastic trim strip back onto the top edge of the door metalwork. Press the door trim back into place. You should feel the press in clips 'pop' back in. Check that the door trim has slid in under the lip on the plastic trim strip at the top of the door trim. Check that the window can be wound up without fouling on the rubber seal.

12. To replace the rear view mirror trim plate on the front doors you need to reset the locking plug on the insige of the trim plate. Simply move the black plug to the outer end of the four locking fingers in the centre of the trim plate. When replacing the trim plate, make sure the edge of the plate nearest the window has located over the window frame, then locate the four locking fingers into the hole and tap into place. Replace the screw. I don't have manual mirrors, so I don't know how this part would differ on cars with manual mirrors.

13. Retighten the screws in the grab handle, replace the mirror ajustment switch (if fitted), and the trim plate. Check operation of the mirror adjustment switch.

14. Replace the lock knob trim ring and the retaining screw. Insert the orange strip into the lock knob so that it sits out from the front of the lock knob. Make sure the door is unlocked (ie the lock rod is pulled up). Drop the lock knob over the lock rod so that the orange strip rests against the bottom of the lock knob trim ring. Press the orange strip into the lock knob so it sits flush with the front of the lock knob. Check operation of the lock knob.

15. That's it. Sit back and wait for the rubber strip to come adrift from the next door.


Heater/air conditioner fan on a VN-VS only works on some speeds

If the heater/air conditioner fan on a VN-VS only works on some speeds ie; only high speeds, its very likely to be the resistor found under the plastic cover under the windscreen wiper arms.

It is a very simple job. The tools required are a small flathead screwdiver and a smallish phillips head screwdriver.

1. The plastic cover is removed by displacing rubber seal, undoing the clips with small screwdriver and lifting it off.

2. When the plastic cover is off you will see a dome held on with 2 screws in front of the passenger seat towards the centre of the car.

3. Remove the dome and then take the elecrical plug off the resistor, undo the 2 screws (2 more screws) holding the resistor in and withdraw the resistor. It looks kind of like a bird cage.

4. In the birdcage are 3 coils of wire if one of them is broken thats why the fan is acting up. You will probably have to look very closely at it.

5. Buy a new one!!!

6. From go to woa this job takes about half an hour if you take your time and do it carefully. A sparkie will charge you copious amounts of your well deserved and hardly earned $$$$$.

7. As they say; "installation is the same procedure in reverse.

From: Pete Vennix


VN petrol and temp. gauge intermittently failing

Get Voltage regulator board mounted behind cluster re-soldered/repaired.

From: David Roitman


VN Temperature Gauge Tip

If the gauge is reading funny, check the main earth strap from the coil pack of the sixes to near the air filter box. Holden usually forgets this earth and the motor earths through the temp gauge and will give a false reading. After many tests, an Auto Electrician told me to check it and it was stuck under the air box. A new clamp and perfect. Holden's reply- Oh well you get that! Not any more I don't... Hope this helps someone else.

From: Andrew


VN Calais Trip Computer Special Functions

To start the special functions, press and hold the RESET button while turning on the ignition. The manual says to exit use the + and - buttons, it does not work on mine, MODE and RESET buttons have to be pressed simultaneously. The computer will do a self diagnostic check and display the word 'FAIL' if it finds an internal fault.

There are three modes of operation, the 1st diagnostic display shows: speed in km/h, fuel in L/h, Button Test. In the button test a '0' should be displayed for each button pressed (trip computer only).

Press the mode button to change the display to the 2nd diagnostic display: Battery Voltage, Fuel tank sender Volts, Button Test again. For the fuel tank: Tank full approx 4.4V, Half full approx 6.6V, Empty tank approx 8.5V.

Press the mode button to energise all segments of the display.


VN Commodore continual flat battery

Fault- boot lamp switch faulty

From: Peter F


See also below "Fuel pump running continuously".


V6 Commodore not starting

Symptom- VN Commodore not starting when fuel and spark are present. Fault- spark plugs and/or leads

Symptom- VN Commodore not starting. Fault- Alarm switch in glovebox faulty

From: Peter Forster

If you have trouble turning over the engine due to a faulty fuel pump, (You will not be able to hear the high pitched whine of the pump) you can get yourself out of trouble by carrying around a hammer and hitting the fuel tank, whilst turning the engine over. If this doesnt work, suspect a blown fuse.

From: Daniel


VN Commodore fuel pump fuse blown but pump is ok

Fault- oil pressure switch

From: Peter Forster


VN Commodore fuel pump operates continuosly after ignition is turned off

Check / replace the oil pressure switch

From: Peter F


The VN Commodore onward uses a line from the OPS (oil pressure switch) to operate the fuel pump in case the ignition line to the FP (fuel pump) fails. When the OPS detects enough pressure through cranking the engine it will automatically turn the FP on. If the OPS is faulty it will just permanently operate the FP until the battery goes flat.

From: Dave


VN, VP Commodore taillights & Headlights problems

If taillights blow, check the wiring loom, a new one may be required.

From: Ian H.


If you are finding that your brakelights are working fine ( without headlights), then when turning parking lights on taillights do not work, or brake lights are dimmer when applied, and to the extreme, with full headlights, either tail or brake do not work, possible cause is faulty rear harness - these tend to rust, etc, over time. Replace harness and/or clean contact points of bulbs.

From: Lance W.


VN - VP lights are fidgity and you have to move em' around to work. This is for everyone that gets sick of the lights not working properly unless you push it around where the metal in the part were the bulb pin sits. Just get long nose pliers and pull the piece of the metal where the bulb sits out, but try not to break it otherwise you'll have to buy a new one, after that get someone to put on the lights, hazard light etc to check. I hope this helps people.

From: Wardy


VN, VP Commodore Power Door Locks fail

Recently my right rear door stopped locking/unlocking properly. I pulled out the door lock and took a gander at the power door lock actuator. The thing can't be triggered without power, so don't bother, but when trying to lock/unlock, it wasn't moving anyway, as if it had no power, and because that wasn't moving, it was stopping the mechanical lock operating manually. The problem with these GM actuators is that they aren't easily servicable, by the user. However, if you want to have a go, here it is:

Open the actuator at the seams. It can be quite difficult, I did it by shoving a flat-blade screw-driver down the cable-end, into the verticle gap closest to the edge, which started it opening. Then, I shoved another screwdriver down the same side at the other end -- by the actuator. Don't worry if it sounds like things are breaking, they are, and there isn't much you can do. Once you have it open, have a look at the wires connecting the motor to the circuit board. On mine, the red wire had disconnected. I soldered it back on, and put it back together (using masking tape to seal it again - it won't reseal), and it works perfectly again.

Hope this helps!

From: Phillip O'Donnell


Before you go ripping actuators apart, first simply look at the connector. Mine was dirty, all it needed was a clean, and a fine pick to bend the pins back out to make a firmer connection.

From: Ash


VN Central Locking Cycles For No Reason Or Engine Stalls Then Starts Normally

Check the Main fuse, it should have bolts securing it. If some clown has removed one, normal vibrations may cause it to break contact momentarily. This will cause the central locking to cycle. If it breaks for long enough the engine will stall.

From: Alan B.


VN - VY V6 Commodore hard starting and misfiring under load

Fault- coil pack or DFI module

From: Peter Forster

Also on a VN onwards Commodore V6 (especially VN). If the DFI module (the module sandwiched under the coil packs) stuffs up on you on the side of the road try this... remove the coil packs and then turn on the ignition for a minute or two. The DFI module is spit into 3 separate modules (as the coil pack is also 3 separate coils). After the ignition has been on for some time feel (with your fingers) each individual module section and see which one is the hottest (careful, one may be very hot). The hottest one is the one that is shorted out. unplug that individual module and tape up the wires. Then replace the coil packs and you can limp home on 4 cylinders. A tip from my brother who does roadside assistance work for RACQ in Queensland.

From: Markus


V6 Commodore cuts out at higher temperature

If it cuts out and you are unable to start it for 5 or 10 minutes, try replacing crankshaft sensor.

From: Steve

If your engine suddently cuts out at higher temperatures: If you have to wait for your car to cool down before it will start, but it runs fine when it is well ventilated, it is possibly a faulty crank angle sensor. (to get out of trouble carry a big container of water around with you and pour it over the front of the engine, to cool it down.)

From: Daniel

On a VN onwards Commodore V6, when changing the crank angle sensor, remember that the sensor may need to be adjusted so that is does not hit or rub on the balancer, but runs nicely in between the 2 discs. Don't laugh... I've done it and it cost me another $80.00.

From: Markus


V6 Engine Noise

Just a quick note to let some of you know about a engine noise on the V6. Problem sounds like the timing chain but is actually the pulley on the top of the engine near the alternator, worth checking before doing your timing chain. I changed this and no more noise!

From: Darren

If you start hearing a metallic clanking noise from the engine that is quite loud during idling, but goes away at higher revs, suspect the harmonic balancer.

From: Daniel


VN Commodore Rough Idle

Faulty wiring connection. Black wire with Yellow trace - inside the engine bay coming from EFI control unit. Single wire splits off to two wires. Hold wire, squeeze or move wire at join and the engine should increase in idle then settle. In some cases, the engine may stall. Repair connection.

The above wires run to the Coolant Temperature Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor.

From: Scott


VN V6 Won't Idle When Warm

Remove the Air Filter Duct at the Throttle Valve end. Soak a rag in Carburetter Cleaner and clean both faces of the Throttle Valve butterfly and venturi duct as far as you can get with the rag. If the idle improves, it is worth removing the Throttle body, disassembling and cleaning thoroughly.

From: Stu


VN - VS Stops When Hot, Will Start Once Cooled

Main charge wire from alternator burns out at the back of the alternator due to heat down in the well behind the alternator at the top of the motor above the temp switch. You will find that it will seem as though you have a flat battery but once the car has been left to cool down for about half an hour it will start again. This is because when the wire gets hot it expands and the power can't get to the battery because the wire has broken down due to excessive heat. When the wire gets a chance to cool down all of a sudden the charge that is stored in the alternator and the wire will get through to the battery and you will then have just enough power to start the engine again. I replaced the pissy little thin wire than holden puts on there with a heavy duty VB battery wire which I re-routed along the side of the existing wire casing running to the battery. I fitted up a new battery terminal to take this lead and have had no problems since.

From: Dave J


VN-VR central locking wiring harness falling out of rear door locks

A simple way to fix: drill a 1/8" hole through female connection inside door- thread a small wire tie through drilled hole and through little loop on male connector, do up wire tie and this will hold connection firmly in place. (Take care with centralising hole in female connector, if off centre wiring loom will not connect properly thus failure to operate will result, and keep hole as close to front edge as possible avoiding damage to wires.)

From: Mick


V6 and V8 Engine Fault Codes

Here are some of the Fault Codes from the ECM (Engine Control Module).

From: Neale, Kylea


VP Commodore Automatic not changing into top gear or not changing to top under about 60 kph

I took my VP commodore to a Automatic gearbox specialist to fix a problem where it would stay in second gear all the time around town and only change into top when I was doing in excess of 60 kph. The specialist after test driving and looking in the pan told me that it was worn out and it would need replacing. ($1500+) On taking the car to a second gearbox place the mechanic took it for a drive and on opening the bonnet and grabbing the tv cable on the throttle body and giving it a flick a couple of times fixed the problem for nothing and the problem did not happen again. So much for needing complete gearbox replacement.

From: Mark


VP Commodore oil light on when running

Soon after degreasing the V6 engine on my VP Commodore the oil pressure light came on and stayed on. On inspection of the oil pressure sender I found a small vent hole designed in the switch that had allowed water to get into the switch and make a circuit all the time. I took the switch out and blew it out with air and WD40 a few times and the switch worked as it should. When I looked at the plug for the switch I found the bellow type seal around the base of the plug to be missing allowing any water to run down the plug to go straight into the switch. I found another seal and put it on the plug and the problem did not re-occur.

From: Mark


V6 3800 and V8 5000 Oil Pressure Problems (my VS Caprice, 160,000km)

Recently my wife was driving the car on a 2hour trip from Perth to Bunbury in heavy traffic. The Oil warning light came on and she stopped - that was the good news. The bad news was- there was NO oil pressure. A friend helped her get the car home (towed only a few k's). When I started it the top end was rattling badly - lifted deflated, etc. Recognised mechanics all said change the oil pump after checking the filter. Nothing wrong with the filter so off with the oil pump, Hmmm brand new! no wear! still no oil pressure. checked the "Gregorys" manual, followed checks. Finally had to drop the oil pan for inspection, read on for procedure.

Caution - ALWAYS THINK SAFETY FIRST and DO NOT climb under vehicle unless well supported by approved methods. Approved Methods do not include the use of house bricks!!

Step 1.Remove the front suspension crossmember(x-mmbr). Jack or Raise the front of the car and support on the chassis under front door pillars with car jacks, not on car ramps) Then lower the x-mmbr(easiest when 4 x-mmbr bolts undone and lift the bolts out of the chassis rail by bending back the tab on top of the bolt, slowly lower the xmmbr a few inches and support). "Lifting the engine may not be required but this is how I did it, and suggest undoing the manifolds is still a good idea"

Step 2. Drain the oil (1 inch socket), if the oil is new you may want to recover it into oil drums not your grotty sump tray.

Step 3.Undo the two lower engine mount bolts and exhaust manifold bolts and checking the wiring and hoses all the time (esp. aircon) lift the engine with a quality sling under the harmonic balancer(may not be a good lifting point but it works!)and the oil pan "can" be removed without removing starter, aircon, etc! saves time. use a 3/8 & 14mm socket to remove the oil pan bolts.

Step 4. with the oil pan out you should be able to see the cause of your problem. Crud blocking the sump pump pickup and filling the "dead space" in the bottom of the sump. NB: This problem has come about by Holden trying to resolve oil surge problems. There is a metal "cup" over the steel gauze (read: "crud filter". Crud is caused by using "Stop Leak" products usually by car salesman fixing gasket leakage or compression problems) which slowly fills with crud and does not fall out when the oil is changed.

Step 5. Remove and wash clean the pickup (1 x Main bearing bolt and 2 x 3/8 socket sized bolts) Cut 3/4 of this "cup" away, clean the rest of the crud out and smooth the edges of the cut joint (I marked a line and used an angle grinder to cut the cup off) then refit it in the engine and torque the Main Bearing bolt back up using a torque wrench with correct setting.

Step 6a. Clean the remaining crud and your "recently serviced" oil from the pan. NB: Important point for your NEXT SERVICE - note how the Sump Drain Bolt sits on the side of the pan and does not drain all the oil and crud from the sump when doing and oil change. I suggest you raise the left side of the car when draining oil - (maybe drive it up a car ramp at front and jack the back? or change gravity 30' for a few minutes).

Step 6b. Refit the pan using a new neoprene gasket from Coventries (about $17:00, * aids their xmas pissup fund) using red high temp RTV to hold the gasket to the bottom of the engine while lifting the pan into place.

Step 7.Checking all cables/hoses clear raise(hydraulic jack) and rebolt the x-mmbr in place, these are locking nuts and should be thrown away and replaced with new bolts and nuts(see * in step 6b).

Step 8.Check the rest of wiring/hoses etc and Lower Engine and rebolt.

Steps 9 to 15. Remount manifolds, lower vehicle, (I installed a 600 kPa gauge beside oil pressure switch (and 1000kPa gauge in fuel delivery line) for future reference) Fill 'er up with oil/water etc. and check engine pressure with a gauge when starting.

See attached photos of pickup and crud.

Remember, "Good Luck is usually predetermined by Good Management"

From: Graeme H


Removal of console in VP Commodore

From: Pete

To remove the entire centre console assembly do this.

Remove the ashtray in the centre console. Grab the panel around the gear lever and yank it upwards from the rear (note it clips in at the rear and hinges up at the front - be careful)

Remove glovebox - RHS at the back is a black hinge pivot. Slide this left and unclip box. Remove inspection panel beneath steering wheel by removing clips on front and the hinge pin in a similar manner.

Remove 3 screws along front bottom of radio/storage cup etc facia. Pull it out bottom first. Unplug harnesses for AC/driving lights etc. Remove 3 screws either side of the shroud surrounding the radio etc assembly. LOOSEN the two screws at the leading edge (front) of the console until the console drops down from the radio assemble shroud (what a silly name I gave it eh?). Should unclip at the back and remove.

There is a security screw on the radio that needs to be undo as well as the rivets on the front bracket. Remove radio. Remove climate controls.

To remove console, lift carpet at bottom of centre console storage bin and remove two screws below. Unzip hand brake. Lift rear of console and remove window harness etc. Remove console with heaps of swearing and argueing.

Thats about what I can remember. Some things may be in the wrong order.

If you need more help just yell!

Cheers, Pete!

BTW when you reassemble a good idea is to put a drop of glue (not too much, just a drop to stop any lateral movement) on the mating surfaces of the plastic panelling as it has a habit of squeaking and creaking if it has been removed several times. I use 3M 4475-multipurpose adhesive. Careful, its gets the mozzarella cheese effect happening easily!


Repairing Electric Side Mirror Switch on a VP Commodore

1. If the bulb has blown, replacements are available from Tandy. They are referred to as Microlamps 12V 60mA Product Code 272-1092. They are soldered in.

2. Using a screwdriver as a lever remove the cover on the front of the door handle. The switch is a push fit. Remove the foam from the connector plug and disconnect the switch from the wiring harness.

3. Pull off the Left/Right selector knob and the square directional adjustment knob. The latter is firmly attached.

4. Insert a screwdriver alternately into the three 'windows' on the sides of the switch and press down towards the base to push the switch out of its shell. Warning: Do this over a large bowl as there are many small components including springs that will pop out.

5. You should have 4 small round springs, two flat metal springs, three conical buttons and two small silver metal strips as well as a number of larger components.

6. As the contacts are made of silver they tarnish and that results in a poor contact. All contact surfaces have to be cleaned. I used silver dip followed by thorough washing for the conical silver buttons. This isn't suitable for the fixed contacts as residues are corrosive. Cotton buds and silver cleaner are OK. Clean off residues.

7. Clean copper switch contacts and solder in new bulb if required.

8. Hold switch housing upside down, preferably clamped to keep it steady. Lower the left/right toggle in position with its four springs in each corner. Tweezers will be necessary. Position the two silver strip contacts over the springs.

9. Lower the directional toggle in position. Take care to align it corectly so that it will mate up with the three locations on the switch block.

10. Grease the copper printed circuit contacts. Grease the three locations for the silver buttons and sit the buttons in position pointy side down. Place the flat springs in position (may have to hold in place with grease). Invert the switch block carefully and lower into the housing ensuring that nothing falls out. It snaps into position.

11. Re-attach the two knobs. Note the square one has a small indentation on the shaft that alligns with a tiny plastic clip.

12. Plug in and refit into door handle.

From: Mike Griffin


Loose Steering Wheel Grip on VP (and other models?)

I don't know about your particular State, but during the long, hot summers in the West, prolonged exposure to the sun seems to soften the steering wheel grip, to the point where it "rolls" in your hands when driving, as if it has come adrift from the steel former (which it has).

Don't buy another steering wheel. All you gotta do is re-glue it! I fixed it a treat by using a syringe and needle measuring about 1mm (not being a junkie, I don't know the proper needle size terms, just as long as the centre is sufficient to pass some glue).

1. Drill a hole through the grip, to the steel centre, using the smallest bit you can find. Allow one drilled hole per 3-4" of wheel circumference, wherever the grip has come adrift.

2. Fill the syringe with glue (I used Selleys general purpose multi-grip glue).

3. Insert the syringe needle into each drilled hole, and push the plunger like hell, because the glue is pretty thick. Usually 2-3 ml will do each hole.

4. If a bulge appears in the grip,(because you have inserted too much glue),just even it out with a good hand grip!

The above directions work best in warmer temps, when the steering wheel grip is pliable, and the glue runs better. Allow at least 24 hrs for the glue to set. Where you get the syringe from is your business! Hewlett Packard ink refill kits contain them, and is one easy source.

Happy glueing!

From: Mike Cannon


Petrol Fumes in Interior of VP

Petrol fumes leak into interior of VP commodore when fan is on (especially when set to heating mode).

Clean/Replace carbon cannister. Check vacuum hoses

From: Tim

Fumes may also come inside the car if there is raw fuel leaking from either side of the fuel dampners (1 is located underneath the throttle cable assembly (this is where my problem arose)). Either tighten the hose clamps or replace the fuel hose and clamps. (CAUTION!!! fuel lines are under extreme pressure, consult a mechanic or the Gregory's manual on how to depressurise the fuel lines as fuel spraying in your face hurts your eyes, makes you smell, tastes like crap and isn't good for your health.) On both sides of the dampner and you shold notice the fumes will dissapear in a few hours.

From: Sam


VP alternator charge wire burnt out at alternator b+ terminal

Cut wire back and solder new connector.

From: Chris


VP vent and demister controls not working

I had a problem with my VP Ute with the vent and demister dash controls not always working i.e. unable to demist the windscreen. I found the reason being poor vacuum pressure to the dash control switch caused by a crack in the vacuum hose going into the vacuum reservoir canister located under the passenger side mudguard. You can gain access by removing the protective panels on the underside of the mudguard and either replace or reconnect the damaged hose connection.

From: Keith


Understanding your V.I.N. (Vehicle Identification Number)

This info is mostly from the VR handbook, I assume it is similar for other models.

6H8 VR X 19 H P L 123456
|   |  | |  | | | |
6H8 |  | |  | | | |   World Manufacturer Identifier:  6H8 = Holden
    VR | |  | | | |   Model Code 
       X |  | | | |   Degree of Luxury:  K=Executive, S, SS,  L=Berlina,  X=Calais,  Y=Statesman,  Z=Caprice
         19 | | | |   Body Style Code:  19=4 window (no window in C pillar) Sedan?,  35=Wagon,  80=Ute,  69=6 window (window in C pillar) Sedan?
            H | | |   Engine Code:  H=3800(V6),  U=5000 Injection(V8),  X=2.6 Dual Ram(L6),  L=2.0 Family II
              P | |   Model Year Code:  P=1993,  R=1994
                L |   Assembly Plant Code:  L=Elizabeth, S.A.
                  123456  Sequential Production Serial Number

This info is from the VZ handbook.

6G1 Z K 5 2 F 0 5 L 123456
|   | | | | | | | | |
6G1 | | | | | | | | |  World Manufacturer Identifier:  6=Oceania, G=Australia, 1=Holden
    Z | | | | | | | |  Model Series: Z=VZ
      K | | | | | | |  Luxury Level:  K=Executive, SV6, SV8, SS,  L=Berlina,  X=Calais
        5 | | | | | |  Body Style Code:  5=4 door Sedan,  8=Wagon
          2 | | | | |  Restraint Code: 1=active seat belts, 2=active belts with driver & passenger airbags, 3=active belts with driver airbag, 4=active belts with driver, passenger and side airbags 
            F | | | |  Engine Code:  B=Alloytec 175 V6,  7=Alloytec 190 V6,  F=Gen III V8
              0 | | |  Security Check Code
                5 | |  Model Year Code:  5=2005, 6=2006, etc
                  L |  Plant Build Code:  L=Elizabeth, S.A.
                    123456  Sequential Production Number

From: Neale


VR engine stops for no reason (check engine light on)

If your VR stops for no specific reason (check engine light comes on) and then starts after a period of time, try fiddling with the wiring loom below the coil pack. It works for me.

From: Graham

This works, but only for a short time. The problem is corrosion (probably not visible) between the plug and socket connector pins. The plug and socket are held together by a bolt in the middle (~6mm), undo this, pull the two apart and work them in and out a few times, then squirt good quality WD40 etc in before reassembling. This is a much more long-lasting fix. The basic problem is that the pins should be gold plated to prevent corrosion but they aren't to cut 10c off the production price for Holden. The WD makes an oil film to keep oxygen out.

Update from: Darrell


VR V8 engine stops

VR Senator engine died - wouldn't start, no spark at plugs ,no spark at dizzy, no spark from coil. After many a day, found to be a faulty ignition module, suspected failure of that was put down to a faulty battery. Lessons don't come cheap$$$

From: John


VR Series 2 will not start for up to 1 hour intermittant problem

Generated code 46, no spark or injection pulse. Found problem to be the crank angle sensor, being a controls tech I tracked the fault by spraying the crank sensor with rapid freeze, the trusty V6 fired straight away. Changed the sensor 4 months ago problem solved.

From: William


VR Commodore Rough Idle

VR Commodore rough idling when warm, stalls now and then, flat spot when stabbing the accelerator, no computer diagnosis reading...... Unbolt the alternator, and unscrew and change the $5.00 temperature sensor which I found myself by chance.

From: Jozo


VR hard to start after an hour engine stop

Symptom: After an hour stop, need a long start cranking ( more than 5 seconds) or need a second start.

Solution: Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for any fuel inside. The most common case is the fuel leak into vacuum line causes the fuel rail low fuel pressure. A Repco part to replace the defective one costs about $95, but the Holden one costs about $150, they are the same part number.

From: Dwight


VR V6 Coolant Loss, suspect head gaskets

Before removing heads for head gasket replacement, check very closely the inlet valley cover gaskets, particular around the water jackets. Inspect very carefully as at first the fault may not be visible. The gasket has silicone beading around each port and I found the beading between the water jacket and inlet port to be split thus allowing coolant (under pressure) to be drawn into the inlet port (under vacuum). This inspection may save you much heart ache, time and money.

From: Stephen


Speed Alert Special Functions on VR II and VS

Holding the Speed Up/Speed Down buttons depressed while turning ignition on and starting engine will give you an online digital speedo (in the speed alert module).

From: Mark


VS Commodore Engine & Transmission Fault Codes

Here is a list of the Engine & Transmission Fault Codes for future reference in case anybody requires including how to retrieve them. HOLDEN COMMODORE VS 1993-97.

Fault Codes

The PCM incorporates a Self Diagnostic Function which detects System Malfunctions.

It indicates the presence of a Fault via the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL).

This is located in the Instrument Cluster.
(Formerly referred to as the Check Engine Light)

System Malfunctions fall into Two Categories.

1. Hard Faults

Indicated by the MIL being illuminated whenever the Engine is running.

2. Intermittent Faults.

Cause the MIL to be illuminated while the Fault is present.
The MIL will go out approximately Ten Seconds after the Fault disappears.

Faults of Either Type will cause a Fault Code to be stored in Memory.

Some Fault Codes do NOT illuminate the MIL.
(Indicated in the Fault Code Table)

All Fault Codes consist of Two Digits.
If NO Fault Codes are stored in Memory:

A Code 12 will be displayed.

This consists of;
One Flash of the MIL.
Followed by a 1.2 Second Pause.
Two Flashes of the MIL.
Followed by a Longer Pause.

The Code is then repeated.
If more than One Fault Code is stored in Memory:
The Code with the Lowest Numerical Value will be displayed Three Times.
The Code with the Next Higher Numerical Value will be displayed Three Times.

Fault Code Extraction To enter Diagnostic Mode:

Join Terminal 5 and Terminal 6 on the Diagnostic Connector.
Turn the Ignition Switch ON.
The Fault Codes will be displayed on the MIL.

Fault Code Table

Code # Circuit and Status

12* No RPM Signal
(OK Stationary Engine)
13 No Oxygen Sensor Signal
14 ECT Sensor Voltage Low -auto trans code
15 ECT Sensor Voltage High -auto trans code
16* ECT Sensor Voltage Unsteady
17* PCM Error
19 TPS Stuck Open
21 TPS Voltage High -auto trans code
22 TPS Voltage Low -auto trans code
23* IAT Voltage High
24 No Vehicle Speed Sensor -auto trans code
25* IAT Voltage Low
26* IAT Voltage Unstable
28 Pressure Switch Assembly Short Circuit -auto trans code
31 Theft Deterrent Signal Missing
33 MAP Signal Voltage High
34 MAP Signal Voltage Low
35* Idle Speed Error
36* Vacuum Leak
41 EST Output Circuit Failure
42 Ignition Bypass Circuit Failure
43* Knock Sensor Fault
44 Exhaust Lean Indication
45 Exhaust Rich Indication
47* 18X Reference Signal Missing.
48* Crankshaft Reference Signal Missing
49* Crank Signal Intermittent
51 PROM Error
52 System Voltage High -auto trans code
16 Volts for 109 Minutes
53 System Voltage High -auto trans code
19.5 Volts for 2 Seconds
54 System Voltage Unstable
55 Analogue to Digital Error -auto trans code
56* Running Lean Under Load
57 Injector Voltage Monitor Fault
58* Transmission Fluid Temperature -auto trans code
Voltage Low
59 Transmission Fluid Temperature -auto trans code
Voltage High
66 3-2 Shift Control Solenoid Circuit Fault -auto trans code
67 TCC ON-OFF Solenoid Control Circuit -auto trans code
68 Transmission Component Slipping -auto trans code br /> 69* TCC Stuck ON -auto trans code
72 Vehicle Speed Sensor - Intermittent While Driving
73 Pressure Control Solenoid Current -auto trans code
75 System Voltage Low -auto trans code
79 Transmission Fluid Temperature -auto trans code
Too High
81 2-3 Shift Solenoid "B" Fault -auto trans code
82 1-2 Shift Solenoid "A" Fault -auto trans code
83* TCC PWM Solenoid Fault -auto trans code

Diagnostic Connector
The Diagnostic Connector is located under the Dashboard beneath the Steering Column.

From: David B.


VS Commodore Indicators Stop Working

If your indicators suddenly don't work anymore, odds on the fault will be caused by a faulty hazard switch. Holden relay the indicators through the hazard switch and if it is not used for a length of time the contacts crud up. The easy fix is to get a new swith and fit it, for 18 bucks, it will save you a lot of heartache at the auto electricians in terms of labour costs!! Oh and by the way, check your fuses first!!

From: Kelly


VS Commodore Radio Security Function

To reset the radio after disconnecting power, from the manual for Radio Model 6430V:

1. Turn ignition switch to accessories.

2. Turn radio on, "1" will appear in the display.

3. Via the 6 preset buttons enter the supplied 6 digit security number. As each digit is entered, the number will be displayed in the LCD.

4. If the correct number was entered, the unit will become operational after a few seconds. This release procedure will not have to be performed again, unless the vehicle's battery has been disconnected.

5. If the incorrect number was entered, "2" will appear in the LCD.

6. Enter the correct code and the unit will operate. Should an incorrect number have been entered again, "3" will appear in the display. The unit will only accept the code once more. Should this number be incorrect again, the display will show "---" and the unit must remain connected to power for approximately 1 hour before the correct number can be entered.

From: Neale


VT Commodore Radio Security Function

To reset the radio after disconnecting power:

1. Turn ignition switch to accessories.

2. Enter the 4 digit PIN number. Do not have to turn radio on because it turns on automatically.

3. As PIN is entered numbers will come up as you enter them.

4. If the correct PIN is entered the radio will start after 3 seconds.

5. You can only enter PIN number incorrectly 3 time otherwise you will have to wait one hour without turning on the ignition.

NOTE: If you do not have the code for what ever reason you must take paper or full proof that you own the car or stereo if you bought the stereo separately. To get the code you will have to see your local Holden service dealer. They didn't ask for a fee but some places will. Or you can take the stereo out which is a pain, if you can manage to get the stereo out about an inch the code should be on the top or side of the stereo.

From: Daniel


Special Functions on VT trip computer

Hold down the mode and up buttons with the ignition off then turn the key to Run (no need to actually start the car) and release them a few seconds later, it gives you digital battery voltage, speedo, tacho, temp fuel consumption, fuel left in tank and other cool stuff.

From: Anth, and Daniel.


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