Rob's Railway Pages

Make your own people.

6 model figurines

No, I'm not about to tell you about the birds and the bees. Figures for model railroads are relatively inexpensive so you might think I'm a little mad for trying to make my own but, nevertheless, I find it satisfying to have purely original models on my layout and I've even made models of my friends and family, which they are always pleased to point out to any visitors they happen to bring along. And best of all I can make them while watching television so my wife doesn't feel like such a widow.

Step 1. Shopping

I use 0.3-mm phosphor-bronze wire for the " skeleton" because it's easy to bend and solder but stiff enough to retain its shape while working. Softer wire tends to move while you're working but it can be used with patience.
The body is made of FIMO or SCULPEY III modeling compound (made by Polyform Products Co,USA) this is a kind of plastic/clay that hardens in the oven. It's available in a wide variety of colours. I tend to use flesh, white or transparent but it's painted afterwards anyway. You can buy it in most craft type shops (Spotlight stocks it in Australia).
I use oil based hobby paints (like Humbrol) because I find them easier to use in fine detail than acrylic.
You'll also need a soldering iron, some fine pliers and a scalpel. Some "extra hands" clamps and a pin vice are highly recommended as well.

Step 2. Make the skeleton.

Turn on your soldering iron. I've tried using various glues for this but they just aren't strong enough.
The important part is to set the proportions of arms, legs, head and body. I model OO scale so a 6" person is around 24 mm tall. Remember that not everyone is the same height. Change the quoted lengths for other scales. Eg double for O scale, half for N. You'd be braver than me to attempt this in N scale.
Cut a length of wire approx 70mm in length and bend it hard in the middle to fold in two. The point of the fold will be the head.
Estimate how far down the overall length the hips will be and bend the ends outward at almost right angles.
Estimate again how wide the hips will be and bend the legs downward so they are parallel.
Grab the ends of both legs in your pliers and bend again for the feet.
Cut ONE foot to foot length (4mm in OO scale) . BEND the end of the other foot down at the same place, this bit will be clamped in the pin vice while you sculpt the body. (note: for some poses you might find it easier to hold it by an arm)
Cut another length approx 30 mm for the arms. (your arms' span is almost the same as your height )
Put a slight bend in the middle and solder this across the body at shoulder height.
Bend the arms at the shoulders, elbows and wrists and the legs at the hips, knees and heels to set the figure in the required pose and cut off the excess lengths as required.

Step 3. Add flesh.

Use a scalpel to carve appropriate amounts of compound from the block and apply to the skeleton.
Work it around, carving strategically until it looks like a person. I usually make a nude person then add thin carved sheets of compound to make the clothing, it's just easier that way. I get some worried looks from my wife, though. My railroad is set in the 50s so I make the fashion to suit.
When you've finished enough the compound can be smoothed out using a soft brush dipped in paint thinner, not too much though or it all turns to mush
Cook the final product in the oven for about 10 Min at 150C (275F, it's on the packet!) and it's ready to paint. Be careful not to over-cook and don't put it in the oven while there's food in there, it's toxic!