WAR P40E
½ Scale Replica
Curtiss Kitty Hawk

Designed by:   Grant "Trains" Haywood ©



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Finally I have been able to start on the fuselage construction page.

frames1.jpg

The top and bottom longerons are Hoop Pine, both sides are made in the same jig, and you have to remember that there is a left and right side, as the rear part of the longerons have their thickness changed behind the cockpit area.
This part of construction is easy, as the top longerons are straight, and with a little patience, good joints can be made with a bench belt sander with little effort.
With wax paper, or plastic under the glue joints, the fuse side lifts easily out of the jig. The corner pieces have not been added to the frame, I would reccomend doing this before removing the fuselage frame from the Jig.

sideframes.jpg

With the two sides completed and out of the jig, it suddenly looks smaller than it did on the table. And yes Jim is not the only one building in a single car garage. I had to enclose the carport so I could begin the project. Can't let little things like lack of space get in the way of a project. >grin<



side1.jpg

With a center line established, and using a taught string as reference mark a line down the table, then varnish over it, then you can use it again later without it being damaged. Place the fuse side pieces up against the jig sides, then with the front of the fuselage pieces firmly up against a stop that is Exactly 90 degrees to the centerline, begin placing the top pieces, which are now on the "bottom", or table top, and shim the fuselage side's with wedges to get an exact 90 degrees to the table surface, and the top fuselage pieces with a marked center line can be placed exactly on the line by shimming the side frames. I suggest that the entire top part of the fuselage be fitted up dry, and shimmed as required, then when you have the glue all ready, you can simply add the shims *reccomend taping the shims together if you needed more than one* so that the required shimming is easily done.
When the top pieces are all in place, and the glue has cured, I reccomend only glueing up 2 or 3 cross pieces at a time on the base of the fuse (which is now on the top), to avoid dislodging previously glued pieces as you bring the rear of the fuse together.





fuseinjig.jpg

Will write more soon I promise !




inplane.jpg


Thanks for dropping by.
Grant



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Website Copyright January 01, 2003 by Grant Haywood